Functionally Identical

[Max]

Am I right in thinking that the Touchstreams are functionally indentical? i.e. the only difference between them is what is printed on the surface. In which case I assume I can set an Qwertz German model to DVORAK mode and it will behave correctly.

Aslo has anyone had any luck printing new covers for a Touchstream. If so what did you use and how did you do it?

Max

[nomaded]

Yes, it should just be a matter of changing your "keys" in the MyGesture Editor to match the layout you want.

-- edited to add the following:

And as for changing the "covers", well, if you're switching to Dvorak, you really shouldn't be looking at the surface of the keyboard anyways - at least that's the argument that I see most often about learning dvorak.

I would think that you'd be able to print out the dvorak layouts from fingerworks.com, and tape them to your monitor and use them as a guide. Then use a dvorak tutor to learn the layout in your hands. Jerry Knight has suggested using ABCD: A Basic Course in Dvorak in the past.

[TorbenGB]

functionally indentical? i.e. the only difference between them is what is printed on the surface.

Yes, the physical product is exactly the same - the only difference being
a) the print on the surface (it's actually on the backside of the transparent surface)
b) the firmware revision which you can update by software.

I've had moderate success with painting a new surface in PaintShopPro and then printing that on paper of varying qualities - plain paper seems best, but of course still has more surface resistance when dragging the fingers across the surface, so the original lexan surface wins in comparison. But it works. I can post the image files I used, if anyone's interested.

[Max]

functionally indentical? i.e. the only difference between them is what is printed on the surface.

Yes, the physical product is exactly the same - the only difference being
a) the print on the surface (it's actually on the backside of the transparent surface)
b) the firmware revision which you can update by software.

I've had moderate success with painting a new surface in PaintShopPro and then printing that on paper of varying qualities - plain paper seems best, but of course still has more surface resistance when dragging the fingers across the surface, so the original lexan surface wins in comparison. But it works. I can post the image files I used, if anyone's interested.

Yes, I was trying this last night with varying degrees of success. As you suggest the key is finding something that has the right surface resistance qualities. Paper tends to have a bit too much resistance and gets bits stuck to it.

I notice that mouse mat campanies make very thin mouse mats and wondered whether they could be used and bonded to the surface sucessfully. Shame they only go for such large volume orders - you could potentially get a batch of new style covers (i.e. silver) or even QWERAK covers done and retro fit them.

Max

[TorbenGB]

I have an inkjet color printer, which has the benefit that I can make colored paper overlays, but with the downsides you mention. Perhaps one should experiment with printing on overhead foils of varying texture to see if that's a closer match to the original surface? I have not done this myself because the inkjet colors would smear. Maybe laser (color) printers are better for this?

I just cut out my printed overlay to fit snugly within the frame and then used bits of tape to attach it to the frame. I didn't tape on the surface in order not to damage that.

[Max]

I have an inkjet color printer, which has the benefit that I can make colored paper overlays, but with the downsides you mention. Perhaps one should experiment with printing on overhead foils of varying texture to see if that's a closer match to the original surface? I have not done this myself because the inkjet colors would smear. Maybe laser (color) printers are better for this?

I just cut out my printed overlay to fit snugly within the frame and then used bits of tape to attach it to the frame. I didn't tape on the surface in order not to damage that.

I have tried this with inkjet overhead foils, but these seem to have a more sticky surface than paper. Perhaps laser printer foils (as you suggest) would be an improvement.

[Will]

I would love to change the print on the surface. I've got a DVORAK layouted TS, but miss the German Umlaute. There are many keys I do not use (and some I do not even know what they are for lol), which I would like to remap. It would also be nice to have a paint which gleams in the dark.

[jono]

Torben, would you post an image of your layout?

Cheers

[Max]

I have an inkjet color printer, which has the benefit that I can make colored paper overlays, but with the downsides you mention. Perhaps one should experiment with printing on overhead foils of varying texture to see if that's a closer match to the original surface? I have not done this myself because the inkjet colors would smear. Maybe laser (color) printers are better for this?

I just cut out my printed overlay to fit snugly within the frame and then used bits of tape to attach it to the frame. I didn't tape on the surface in order not to damage that.

I have tried this with inkjet overhead foils, but these seem to have a more sticky surface than paper. Perhaps laser printer foils (as you suggest) would be an improvement.

Update: I have just 'converted' my QWERTZ to a DVORAK layout with corrected key placements. The new 'skin' seems to work fine and looks great, although only time will tell as to how it wears. The ink doesn't appear to be smearing or wearing out and the glide factor is fine. I am using Epson A4 self adhesive photo paper, printed on an Epson R800 and then trimmed to size. I have used the template for the new style DVORAK layout as the basis for the printout, but obviously you could print whatever you like - a deep blue QWERAK Touchstream anyone ?

Basically my QWERTZ now looks and behaves just like a DVORAK touchstream, but with a few key placements corrected!

Disclaimer: Obviously, removal of the adhesive layer may be a problem as could be dragging your fingers across a printed surface (it doesn't appear to come off, but you never know). However, I'm prepared to take the risk. Others do so at their own risk ... I post this for interest only. So if you do this to your own touchstream and there is a problem, please don't blame me!

[ibrandt]

Just FYI:

I was advocating swappable surfaces back on the old FingerWorks forum. In a conversation I had with tech support way back they commented that aside from production costs being a limiting factor, reassembly of the sensor requires a manual calibration step that they weren't sure how they could automate.

This has scared me out of taking apart my LP to see what makes it tick, especially since it's nearly irreplaceable these days. I haven't been reading this forum very thoroughly, so maybe others have already successfully dismantled and reassembled their TouchStreams?

~Ian

[ivanw]

No one here did that yet but jwr did something that may help: looks inside